In 1924, 200 eminent American and Canadian lawyers on a busman’s holiday to Europe opted to include in their itinerary an Irish Free State still reeling from the turmoil of the Civil War. Although the Four Courts, destroyed in 1922, was no longer standing for the visitors to admire, this lively account of their stay, published in the Freeman’s Journal of the 31st of July 1924, provides a fascinating window into the transition between the old and the new:
“For once in a very long way, the weather was kind yesterday afternoon, when the Governor General entertained a very large party in the Viceregal Lodge gardens to meet the members of the American Bar Association. True, a few drops of rain fell, but almost before they reached the earth the Minister for Winds and Rains had repented him of his wrath, and the sun shone forth.
Here was Ireland undivided. Unmistakable Six-County accents, mingled with Cork’s soft cadences, and the West and Dublin greeted the overseas guests in unison. So too, ex-judges and new justices exchanged friendly raillery over the precarious handling of teacups and ice-plates, amidst crowds and dainty frocks.
By common consent, this was the most brilliant function, which has graced the Lodge for many a day. It was fitting so, for is not the first Governor General of the Free State himself a lawyer? Indeed, somebody remarked, looking over the throng, ‘it seems the modern Irish are a nation of lawyers.’ Be that as it may, the American guests were obviously quite happy among their Irish brethren and in these Irish surroundings…
THE RUINED FOUR COURTS
The ruined Four Courts seemed to be a favourite topic of conversation. Five different groups within almost a few yards deplored the destruction of this building, even the skeleton of which suggested to the visitors the beauty it had possessed. ‘I have no right to criticise,’ said one of the best known of the guests, ‘when I don’t belong to here. But it does seem oftentimes to the outsider, that Ireland remembers the wrong things and preserves the wrong things.’
In the opinion of at least two of the American attorneys who surely ought to know, it is a good thing that Ireland’s Cabinet does not contain too many lawyers. ‘If the world was ruled less by lawyers, there’d be fewer wars and forever fewer international complications,’ says one of them.
‘Our minds are trained to look for that trap the other fellow is setting for us, and quite naturally that starts him setting them. He may have only friendly intentions when he starts, but give a dog a bad name and he will live up to it.’
And his friend nodded a hearty assent. It is a definite point of view, though probably not one which would recommend itself to most of the legal lights!
DAINTY GOWNS IN GAY COLOURS
What shall be said of the dainty gowns in gay colours, which dotted the lawns and showed their splendour against the trees? One lovely frock was of white crepe de chine, sprinkled with appliqued flowers of black velvet, outlined with jet beads. Cream and flame marocain in a bewildering array of tiny pleats and panels, made a lovely tout ensemble when worn with a lace hat of cream, stockings to match and cream suede shoes strapped with flame. Here was a costume of grey and rose wool bouclette, there a soft gown of flimsiest lace, yet both seemed as suitable as they were attractive.
The No. 1 Army band under Colonel Fritz Brune, won not only the conventional applause but an almost continuous murmur of admiration from those who listened. Some of the guests asserted that the band not only showed artistic feeling and excellent technique, but was actually giving a subtle ‘character’ of its own to the works it performed.
In the end, one retreated on the position that it might be that the music had taken on new charms for him in these fresh surroundings. ‘Irish folks ought to be poets and musicians with such scenery and such air’ he concluded. ‘And it’s no wonder the Irish always want to get back here before their journey’s over.’
OUR AMERICAN VISITORS
Many of the stay-at-homes were heartened by the keen freshness of these visitors from beyond the Atlantic. It may have been only their politeness, but they made Dubliners, feel that there were, after all, possibilities in the city.
The host himself moved quietly, alone amongst his guests, gathering and giving interest as he went. Even some of the usual office-worn ministers seemed here to forget the problems which beset their official posts and daily life in exchanging views with men whose minds had not been biased by too close proximity to Ireland’s peculiar problems.
This Viceregal party may well be regarded as an overture to the Tailteann celebrations and the famous Horse Show. If so, the omens seemed particularly propitious, and Ireland owes the American Bar a debt of gratitude for placating the Fates and catching for her the ear of the gods who watch over the world a-play.
DINNER AT KING’S INNS
In the evening the American visitors were the guests of the Benchers of the King’s Inns in a dinner given at the Inns. A distinguished gathering at the function included the Governor-General. Mr Hugh Kennedy, Chief Justice of the Saorstat, who presided, briefly welcomed the guests.
After dinner the visitors were entertained to a vocal and instrumental programme of Irish music, including folk songs. The artistes were Miss Jean Nolan and Mr Joe O’Neill, the well-known Dublin vocalists, and Miss O’Hara, violinist. Dr JT Larchet acted as accompanist.
During the evening the doors were opened, and the party remained standing while the band of the Civic Guard outside played ‘The Star-Spangled Banner’ and ‘The Maple Leaf’ in compliment to the visitors. Among the Canadian guests were Sir James Aikin, Lieutenant-Governor of Manitoba, Lord Chief Justice Harvey, and the Hon Mr Rowell, ex-President of the Canadian Privy Council.
The attendance included – The Governor General, Mr K O’Higgins (Minister for Justice), Lord Glenavy (Chairman of the Seanad), the Right Hon TF Moloney (former Lord Chief Justice), the Right Hon WH Dodd and the Right Hon AW Samuels (former Justices of the High Court), Mr James Moore (President of the Incorporated Law Society) and leading members of the Irish legal profession.”
The Ballymena Weekly Telegraph of 9 August 1924 (a publication perhaps not entirely sympathetic to the new regime) noted that the Benchers and the Lord Chief Justice wore bar gowns over their ordinary evening costume, and that
“[t]he most unique feature of the evening was the ‘menu’ artistically produced with a picture of the front of the garden side of the building at the top, and, at each side, one small inset figure of a judge in full judicial costume, and at the bottom a woe-begone female looking across at an old-fashioned style of ship labelled’ the Mayflower.’ Inside the card had on the left side the dinner menu in English, and on the opposite side in Irish, but a most unique feature of the card was not what it contained, but what it omitted, namely, that there were no toasts whatever inserted on it; and in fact, no toasts were proposed.
One of the Canadian visitors remarked that it seemed the Free State folks seemed not to have the courage of their own convictions. However, it may have been good policy to have had no toasts, as if the Free Staters had proposed theirs some of the other members would most probably have proposed that of his Majesty the King and some friction might have arisen. Two or three of the visitors however remarked as being curious to them, that, at all the other festivities they had attended in England on their way over, that was the toast which had been first given and was always responded to cordially.”
The writer of the article goes on to report that
“The following day I went to Dublin Castle to have a look around the Courts (now temporarily located there) The Bar library is situated in what was a while ago called ‘St Patrick’s Hall,’ the scene of many Viceregal festivities in the good old days… I had the pleasure of shaking hands with many old friends of my Bar life up in Dublin, and then wandered into the Courts which were sitting for work.
The pleasure of my visit was considerably marred when I saw the judges presiding in morning dress instead of judicial robes and I felt that dignity had departed from the Bench, though I was glad to see that the members of the Bar kept the old traditions of the profession in wig and gown. I was informed that they will retain such costume no matter what rule to the contrary may be passed by the Committee created by the Act constituting the present Courts to dictate to them what dress they are to wear. Possibly, common sense will come to the aid of the Rules Committee and enable them to restore the dignity of robes on the Bench also. I believe Mr Justice O’Shaughnessy alone insists on putting on judicial robes when he sits and intends to do so.
In Dublin (and I assume elsewhere in the South) the Crown and the initials of the King have been removed from the postal cars and pillar boxes…”
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